The fog was so thick and settled that the Sumburgh Airport was closed down, with no relief in sight. Changing our travel plans on the fly, as it were, we nabbed seats but no berths on the all-night ferry. Arriving at 7 AM, we might have been excused for heading straight for our beds. Instead, within three hours of landing in the Shetlands we were bundled into a small-ish boat for several hours to watch seabirds nesting on the cliffs of Noss. The good news was that the lack of wind that had let the fog settle also let the seas settle.
Our expotition leaders said there were an estimated 12,500 pairs of birds. Having seen the cliffs covered in birds, I figure that’s a conservative estimate.